Roagna Barbaresco Asili Vecchie Viti 2017
Roagna · Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy
At a glance
- Producer
- Roagna
- Region
- Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont, Italy
- Grape variety
- Nebbiolo
- Wine type
- Red
- Body
- Full-bodied and Earthy
- Sweetness
- Dry
- Typical price
- $550–$800 (per 750ml bottle, global retail as of 2024)
Tasting profile
Vibrant red cherry and raspberry, rose petal, spice, liquorice, subtle tar, earth, with elegant minerality. Powerful yet restrained.
Evolution: With age: increased truffle, dried rose, forest floor, balsam, and savory leather—tannins soften, fruit melds into complex tertiary bouquet.
At peak: Aromatic nuance and textural harmony at peak (2032–2045); intense and hauntingly complex Nebbiolo typicity.
Structure
- Acidity
- High—classic for top Barbaresco and key for longevity
- Tannins
- High, refined, and prominent—structural and ageworthy
- Alcohol
- Approx. 14–14.5% ABV, balanced for Nebbiolo
- Aging potential
- 35–40+ years from vintage for ideal storage; expected maturity 2028–2050+
Drinking window
- Peak drinking
- 2032 to 2054
- Optimal window
- 2028 to 2057
- Current status
- Young and cellarworthy; entering early drinking phase but decades of potential
- Current condition
- Structured, primary fruit with developing tertiary notes; open with aeration but will benefit from extended cellaring
This is one of Barbaresco's longest-lived wines, made from the Asili vineyard's old vines, some pre-phylloxera, in the hands of a legendary traditionalist estate. The 2017 vintage, while warm, was highly successful at top addresses with careful selection—Roagna's strict practices produced a wine with decades of aging potential, where structure, concentration, and acidity will deliver graceful evolution over 35–40 years.
Food pairing
Porcini risotto, braised veal shank (ossobuco), aged Parmigiano Reggiano, wild mushroom dishes, Piedmontese beef tartare, truffled tagliolini, roast lamb.
Serving
- Serving temperature
- 16–18°C / 61–64°F
- Decant
- Yes (2–3 hours) — To encourage aromatic development and soften youthful tannins—necessary for wines of this structure and youth.
Sustainability
Sustainability score: 8/10
Old-vine cultivation (including pre-phylloxera), emphasis on biodiversity, hand harvesting, wild yeast fermentations, gravity flow in winery, no new oak, recyclable packaging, minimal intervention, natural water conservation via deep-rooted old vines.
Roagna is widely recognized for a natural, traditional approach: no synthetic chemicals, careful attention to soil health, natural cover crops, hand hoeing, and extremely low yields from old vines. While not formally certified, their viticulture exceeds typical organic standards in practice. Wines are bottled with minimal intervention and no new oak, and a focus on longevity minimizes waste through collectible aging. However, the global distribution necessary for a cult wine slightly raises overall carbon footprint compared to hyper-local consumption. On balance, Roagna’s commitment ranks them among the more sustainable elite Piedmont estates.